Most earthquake injuries don't come from buildings collapsing. They come from objects falling, toppling, and flying across the room. Unsecured TVs, bookcases, water heaters, and kitchen cabinets are responsible for a large share of earthquake-related injuries and a significant portion of property damage in moderate earthquakes.
The good news: most home earthquake-proofing is inexpensive, requires basic tools, and can be completed in a single weekend. This guide walks through every room in your home with specific products, cost estimates, and step-by-step priorities.
Key Takeaways
- 80% of earthquake-proofing costs under $250 total and can be done with basic hand tools in a weekend.
- The three highest-priority items: strap your water heater ($15–$30), anchor tall furniture ($5–$15 per piece), and install cabinet latches ($3–$8 per cabinet).
- Bedroom safety is about what's NOT above your bed. Move heavy mirrors, shelves, and framed art away from sleeping areas.
- Structural retrofitting (foundation bolting, cripple wall bracing) is the most expensive step — typically $3,000–$10,000 for an average home — but California and other states offer retrofit grant programs that can cover most or all of the cost.
- Start with the room where you spend the most time and work outward. Every item you secure is one fewer projectile during shaking.
- Water heater strapping is required by code in California (since 1982) and several other seismic states. Even if it's not required where you live, it's the single most important non-structural item to secure.
Home Earthquake-Proofing Checklist
This master checklist covers every room. Detailed instructions follow in the room-by-room sections below.
| Item | Location | Est. Cost | Difficulty | Priority |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Water heater strapping | Garage / Utility | $15–$30 (DIY) or $150–$300 (professional) | Easy | Critical |
| Furniture anchoring (bookcases, dressers, shelving units) | All rooms | $5–$15 per piece | Easy | Critical |
| Cabinet latches (kitchen and bath) | Kitchen, Bathroom | $3–$8 per cabinet | Easy | High |
| TV/monitor mounting or strapping | Living room, Bedroom | $20–$60 (strap) or $30–$150 (wall mount) | Easy–Moderate | High |
| Refrigerator strap | Kitchen | $15–$25 | Easy | High |
| Museum putty / quake gel for small items | All rooms | $5–$10 per pack | Easy | Medium |
| Mirror and artwork securing | All rooms | $5–$20 per item | Easy | Medium |
| Flexible gas connector for appliances | Kitchen, Laundry | $20–$40 each | Moderate (or hire plumber) | High |
| Overhead light fixture check | All rooms | $0 (inspection only) | Easy | Medium |
| Gas shutoff wrench | Exterior / Gas meter | $10–$15 | Easy | Critical |
| Foundation bolting | Foundation / Crawl space | $3,000–$7,000 (professional) | Professional recommended | Critical (if not done) |
| Cripple wall bracing | Crawl space | $3,000–$10,000 (professional) | Professional recommended | Critical (if applicable) |
| Chimney bracing/inspection | Exterior | $200–$1,500 | Professional | High (if applicable) |
| Garage shelving anchoring | Garage | $5–$15 per unit | Easy | High |
| Hazmat storage securing | Garage | $30–$80 (locking cabinet) | Easy | Medium |
Kitchen
The kitchen is the most hazardous room in your home during an earthquake. It contains the highest concentration of heavy objects, glass, sharp items, and potential gas/fire sources in a small space.
Cabinet Latches
Standard cabinet doors swing open during shaking, sending dishes, glasses, and canned goods onto the floor — and onto anyone who's taking cover.
What to install: Earthquake-rated child-safety latches or dedicated seismic cabinet latches. Standard magnetic push latches are NOT sufficient for earthquakes; you need positive-locking latches that require deliberate action to open.
- Cost: $3–$8 per cabinet
- Installation time: 10–15 minutes per cabinet
- Tools needed: Drill/driver, pencil, measuring tape
- Products: Safe-T-Proof cabinet latches, Quakehold! cabinet latches, or Rev-A-Shelf seismic latches
Install on all upper cabinets. Lower cabinets are a lower priority but consider latching any that contain heavy items (cast iron, large appliances) or hazardous materials (cleaning supplies).
Refrigerator Securing
A standard refrigerator weighs 200–400 lbs. During strong shaking, it can slide several feet, tip over, or block an exit path.
How to secure:
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Use a dedicated refrigerator strap kit that anchors to the wall stud behind the fridge
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The strap wraps around or clips to the top of the refrigerator and attaches to a wall bracket
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Allow enough slack for the door to open normally
-
Cost: $15–$25 for a strap kit
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Installation time: 20 minutes
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Products: Quakehold! refrigerator strap, Safe-T-Proof refrigerator strap
Flexible Gas Connectors
If your stove, oven, or dryer uses a gas connection, the rigid connector pipe can crack during shaking, creating a gas leak and fire risk.
Replace rigid gas connectors with flexible, corrugated stainless steel connectors. These are designed to flex during seismic movement without breaking.
- Cost: $20–$40 each
- Installation: Moderate DIY or hire a licensed plumber ($75–$150 labor)
- Important: Use only connectors rated for your specific appliance. Gas dryers, stoves, and water heaters each have different connector requirements. Check the CPSC gas connector safety guide for current specifications.
Other Kitchen Items
- Secure upper microwave: If your microwave sits on a shelf (not built-in), secure it with an appliance strap or Velcro-style earthquake strap.
- Move heavy items low: Store cast iron pans, heavy appliances, and canned goods in lower cabinets. Light items (plastic containers, paper goods) go up high.
- Secure knife blocks: Use museum putty or Velcro on the base of knife blocks to prevent them from sliding off counters.
Living Room
TV and Monitor Mounting
Flat-screen TVs are top-heavy and sit on narrow bases. They're among the most commonly damaged items in moderate earthquakes.
Option 1: Wall mount (best protection)
- Use a wall mount rated for your TV's size and weight, anchored into wall studs (not just drywall)
- Cost: $30–$150 for the mount, plus $100–$200 for professional installation if needed
- Installation time: 30–60 minutes DIY
Option 2: TV safety straps (for TVs on stands)
- Anti-tip straps attach from the back of the TV to the wall or furniture behind it
- Cost: $15–$30
- Installation time: 15 minutes
- Products: Quakehold! flat screen TV strap, Safety 1st TV straps
Bookshelf and Furniture Anchoring
Any furniture taller than 30 inches should be anchored to the wall. This includes bookcases, entertainment centers, china cabinets, dressers, wardrobes, and freestanding shelving.
How to anchor:
- Locate the wall studs behind the furniture using a stud finder
- Attach an L-bracket or furniture strap to the top of the furniture piece
- Secure the other end to the wall stud with a 2.5–3 inch wood screw
- Use at least 2 anchor points per piece of furniture
- Cost: $5–$15 per piece (L-brackets or straps)
- Installation time: 15–20 minutes per piece
- Tools needed: Stud finder, drill/driver, appropriate screws
Important: Drywall anchors alone are NOT sufficient for earthquake furniture anchoring. You must attach to studs. If no stud is available in the right location, use a toggle bolt rated for at least 50 lbs per bolt, or add a horizontal board (1x4 or 2x4) spanning between two studs and anchor to that.
Museum Putty and Quake Gel
For small decorative items — vases, figurines, picture frames on shelves, pottery — museum putty or quake gel holds them in place during moderate shaking.
- How it works: A removable, reusable adhesive that sticks to the bottom of the object and the shelf surface
- Cost: $5–$10 per package (enough for 10–20 items)
- Limitations: Effective for light-to-moderate shaking. In a major earthquake, putty won't save a 30-lb ceramic vase — that should be moved to a lower shelf or enclosed cabinet.
- Products: Quakehold! Museum Putty, Ready America QuakeHold, Museum Gel (for glass-on-glass surfaces)
Artwork and Mirrors
Hanging artwork and mirrors can become dangerous projectiles. Heavy framed items above seating areas are a particular risk.
How to secure:
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Use closed-hook picture hangers instead of open hooks (prevents wire from jumping off during shaking)
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For heavy items (over 10 lbs), use two anchor points on separate wall studs
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Apply museum putty or adhesive bumper pads to the bottom corners of frames — this prevents swinging and keeps the frame against the wall
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For mirrors: Use mirror clips or construction adhesive in addition to wire hanging. A large mirror falling from a wall is one of the most dangerous common household hazards during an earthquake.
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Cost: $5–$20 per item (closed hooks: $3–$5; mirror clips: $5–$10)
Bedroom
Bedroom earthquake-proofing is primarily about what you remove, not what you add. The goal is to ensure nothing heavy can fall on sleeping occupants.
Above the Bed: The Critical Zone
Assess everything within falling distance of your bed:
- Remove or relocate: Heavy mirrors, framed art with glass, floating shelves with objects, wall-mounted TVs (unless on a seismic-rated mount), hanging plants in heavy pots
- Replace: Heavy picture frames above the bed with lightweight canvas prints or fabric art
- Secure: Any remaining wall items with closed hooks and adhesive bumper pads
The FEMA National Earthquake Hazards Reduction Program (NEHRP) guidance specifically identifies objects above beds as a primary residential injury risk.
Bedside Emergency Items
Keep these within arm's reach of your bed:
| Item | Why |
|---|---|
| Sturdy shoes (hard-soled, closed-toe) | Broken glass and debris on the floor are a guaranteed hazard after shaking |
| Flashlight (with fresh batteries) | Power will likely be out; you need to see hazards |
| Phone (charging) | Communication and emergency light source |
| Whistle | If trapped, a whistle carries further than your voice and requires less energy |
Dresser and Wardrobe Anchoring
Tall dressers and wardrobes are common tipping hazards, especially in children's bedrooms. Anchor every tall piece of bedroom furniture to the wall using the methods described in the Living Room section above.
In children's rooms, this is non-negotiable. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission reports that a child is killed by a tipping dresser or TV approximately every 2 weeks in the U.S. — and that's without earthquake shaking. Earthquakes dramatically increase the tipping risk.
Bathroom
Medicine Cabinet and Vanity Mirrors
- Secure medicine cabinet doors with latches (same type as kitchen cabinets)
- If your bathroom has a large wall mirror, ensure it's secured with mirror clips or adhesive, not just resting on vanity-mounted brackets
- Store glass perfume bottles and containers in enclosed cabinets, not on open shelves
Water Heater (if in bathroom closet)
See the Garage/Utility section below for full water heater strapping instructions. If your water heater is in a bathroom closet, the same strapping requirements apply.
Garage and Utility Areas
Water Heater Strapping
This is the #1 non-structural earthquake safety priority in your home.
An unsecured 40–80 gallon water heater weighs 300–800 lbs when full. During an earthquake, it can topple, rupturing gas lines (fire/explosion risk) and water lines (flooding, loss of emergency water supply). California has required water heater strapping since 1982 under the Uniform Plumbing Code.
How to strap a water heater:
- Use two heavy-gauge metal straps (plumber's tape or a dedicated kit), one in the upper third and one in the lower third of the tank
- Wrap each strap around the tank and secure both ends to the wall studs behind the heater using 1/4-inch x 3-inch lag screws
- If the water heater is on a platform, secure the platform to the floor as well
- Ensure the gas connector is a flexible corrugated stainless steel line, not rigid pipe
- Cost: $15–$30 for a DIY kit; $150–$300 for professional installation
- DIY time: 30–60 minutes
- Products: Quakehold! water heater strap kit (meets California requirements), Watts water heater strap kit
- Code compliance: California Health and Safety Code Section 19211 requires water heater bracing at time of sale and during any installation. Many other seismic states have similar requirements.
In California, the Earthquake Brace + Bolt program (see Structural section below) covers water heater strapping in addition to foundation work.
Gas Shutoff Wrench
Keep a 12-inch adjustable wrench or a dedicated earthquake gas shutoff wrench strapped to or stored immediately next to your gas meter. After an earthquake, if you smell gas, hear hissing, or see a damaged gas line, turn the valve 1/4 turn so the handle is perpendicular to the pipe.
- Cost: $10–$15 for a dedicated gas shutoff wrench
- Remember: Once you shut off the gas, only the gas company should turn it back on.
Garage Shelving
Free-standing metal shelving units in garages are common tipping hazards. They hold heavy items (paint cans, tools, automotive supplies) and are rarely anchored.
How to secure:
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Anchor shelving units to wall studs with L-brackets at the top
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Use bungee cords or shelf lips to prevent items from sliding off shelves during shaking
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Store heavy items on the lowest shelves
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Store flammable and hazardous items in a dedicated, latching metal cabinet on the floor level
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Cost: $5–$15 for L-brackets per shelf unit; $50–$100 for a metal hazmat storage cabinet
Hazardous Material Storage
Common garage items that become dangerous during earthquakes: gasoline, propane, paint thinner, pesticides, pool chemicals, fertilizer, motor oil, and cleaning solvents.
Best practices:
- Store all hazardous materials in a dedicated metal cabinet with a latch (UL-listed flammable storage cabinets are ideal but basic locking metal cabinets work)
- Never store incompatible chemicals together (e.g., chlorine-based products and ammonia-based products)
- Keep containers tightly sealed and in secondary containment if possible
- Store away from the water heater, furnace, and any ignition source
Structural Retrofitting
Non-structural improvements (everything above) protect you from falling objects. Structural retrofitting protects your house from falling off its foundation.
Who Needs Structural Retrofitting?
If your home was built before the mid-1980s in a seismically active area, it likely needs structural retrofitting. The most common vulnerabilities:
| Vulnerability | Description | Homes Affected | Risk |
|---|---|---|---|
| Unbolted foundation | House sits on foundation by gravity, not bolted down | Pre-1950 homes primarily | House slides off foundation |
| Cripple wall | Short wood-framed walls between foundation and first floor | Homes with raised foundations, pre-1980 | Cripple walls collapse, house drops |
| Soft story | Ground floor has large openings (garage doors, storefronts) with insufficient bracing | Apartments, condos, mixed-use buildings | Entire story collapses |
| Unreinforced masonry (URM) | Brick or stone walls without steel reinforcement | Pre-1940 buildings | Walls collapse outward |
| Chimney | Unreinforced masonry chimney | Many pre-1960 homes | Chimney collapses through roof or outward |
Foundation Bolting
Foundation bolting connects your house's wood frame (the mudsill) to the concrete foundation using anchor bolts and metal plates.
- What's involved: Drilling into the concrete foundation, installing expansion bolts or epoxy-set bolts, and adding metal plate washers to distribute load
- Cost: $3,000–$7,000 for a typical single-story home (professional installation)
- Timeline: 1–3 days for a standard home
- DIY feasibility: Possible for experienced DIYers, but professional installation is recommended for code compliance and warranty
Cripple Wall Bracing
Cripple walls are the short wood-framed walls in the crawl space between the foundation and the first floor. In many older homes, these walls are unbraced and will collapse during strong shaking, dropping the house 1–3 feet.
- What's involved: Adding structural plywood sheathing to cripple walls, with proper nailing patterns and hardware connections
- Cost: $3,000–$10,000 depending on home size and crawl space accessibility
- DIY feasibility: Possible but physically demanding (working in a crawl space) and requires understanding of building code requirements
Retrofit Grant Programs
Several programs help offset the cost of structural retrofitting:
| Program | What It Covers | Eligibility | Amount |
|---|---|---|---|
| Earthquake Brace + Bolt (EBB) | Foundation bolting, cripple wall bracing | California homeowners in eligible ZIP codes | Up to $3,000 grant |
| FEMA Hazard Mitigation Grant Program (HMGP) | Structural retrofitting after a federal disaster declaration | Homeowners in declared disaster areas | Varies — typically 75% federal cost share |
| FEMA Building Resilient Infrastructure and Communities (BRIC) | Pre-disaster mitigation including seismic retrofits | Communities apply; homeowners benefit through local programs | Varies by project |
| State/local programs | Varies | Varies by state and municipality | Varies |
California's Earthquake Brace + Bolt (EBB) program is the most widely used residential seismic retrofit incentive in the country. Since its launch, the program has provided grants to tens of thousands of homeowners. Check eligibility at EarthquakeBraceBolt.com.
For other states, contact your state's emergency management agency or search the FEMA Hazard Mitigation Assistance page.
Hiring a Retrofit Contractor
If you hire a contractor for structural work:
- Verify they hold a current contractor's license (check your state's licensing board)
- Ask for references from previous seismic retrofit jobs specifically
- Get at least 3 written bids
- Ensure the work will be permitted and inspected by your local building department
- In California, look for contractors registered with the EBB program
- For soft-story retrofits on multi-unit buildings, many cities (Los Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle) have mandatory retrofit ordinances with specific timelines. Check with your local building department.
Learn more about structural retrofit options at our seismic retrofit guide.
Room-by-Room Priority Summary
If you're overwhelmed, start here. This is the order of highest-impact actions:
Weekend 1: Critical Items (2–3 hours, under $100)
- Strap the water heater — $15–$30
- Anchor all tall furniture (bookcases, dressers, shelving) — $5–$15 each
- Install kitchen cabinet latches — $3–$8 each
- Put a gas shutoff wrench at the meter — $10–$15
- Place shoes and a flashlight by your bed — $0 (use what you have)
Weekend 2: High-Priority Items (2–3 hours, under $150)
- Secure the TV (mount or strap) — $20–$60
- Strap the refrigerator — $15–$25
- Secure artwork and mirrors — $5–$20 each
- Replace rigid gas connectors with flexible ones — $20–$40 each
- Anchor garage shelving and secure hazardous materials — $20–$100
Longer-Term: Structural (Get quotes, plan budget)
- Foundation bolting (if needed) — $3,000–$7,000
- Cripple wall bracing (if applicable) — $3,000–$10,000
- Check for retrofit grant eligibility — potentially free
Related Guides
Sources
- FEMA. "Protecting Your Home from Earthquake Damage." https://www.fema.gov/emergency-managers/risk-management/earthquake/nehrp
- FEMA. "Hazard Mitigation Assistance Grants." https://www.fema.gov/grants/mitigation
- California Earthquake Authority. "Earthquake Brace + Bolt Program." https://www.earthquakebracebolt.com
- California Health and Safety Code, Section 19211 — Water heater bracing requirements.
- U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission. "Gas Connectors." https://www.cpsc.gov/Safety-Education/Safety-Guides/General-Hazards/Gas-Connectors
- USGS. "Earthquake Hazards Program — Prepare." https://earthquake.usgs.gov/learn
- American Red Cross. "Earthquake Safety." https://www.redcross.org/get-help/how-to-prepare-for-emergencies/types-of-emergencies/earthquake.html
- City of Los Angeles Department of Building and Safety. "Mandatory Retrofit Programs." https://www.ladbs.org
- California Governor's Office of Emergency Services. "Earthquake Preparedness." https://www.caloes.ca.gov
- FEMA. "FEMA P-530: Earthquake-Resistant Design Concepts." https://www.fema.gov/emergency-managers/risk-management/earthquake/nehrp/publications