Best Earthquake Straps and Anchors: Secure Your Water Heater, Furniture, and TV (2025)

Properly strapping your water heater, anchoring furniture, and securing your TV can prevent injuries, fires, and thousands of dollars in damage during an earthquake. Here's exactly what you need and how to install it.

Key Takeaways

• An unstrapped water heater is one of the most dangerous items in your home during an earthquake. At 100-150+ pounds when full, a toppling water heater can rupture gas lines (causing fires or explosions), flood your home, and cause crush injuries. California law requires all water heaters to be strapped.
• Furniture anchoring prevents bookshelves, dressers, and cabinets from toppling onto people — a leading cause of earthquake injuries and deaths, particularly for children and elderly family members.
• TV anti-tip straps are inexpensive insurance against a 30-80+ pound flat-screen becoming a projectile during shaking. Mount your TV to the wall when possible; use straps as a secondary measure.
• All anchoring must go into wall studs or concrete using proper hardware. Drywall anchors will fail during an earthquake. Lag bolts into studs or concrete anchors are the only reliable options.
• Quakehold! is the most recognized brand in earthquake-specific anchoring products and offers solutions for nearly every category. For water heater straps, both BRK/Kidde and Watts make code-compliant kits.

Why Earthquake Strapping Matters

During an earthquake, unsecured objects become projectiles and toppling hazards. The shaking forces are unintuitive — items you'd never expect to move can slide, tip, or launch across a room. Understanding the specific risks helps motivate proper preparation.

Water Heaters: Fire, Flood, and Crush Risk

A standard residential water heater holds 40-80 gallons of water and weighs 100-160+ pounds when full. During moderate to severe shaking, an unstrapped water heater will shift, slide, or topple. The consequences are potentially catastrophic.

Gas line rupture is the primary concern. When a gas water heater topples, the rigid gas supply line can crack or break, releasing natural gas into your home. A spark from any source — the water heater's own pilot light, an electrical switch, a phone being used — can ignite the gas. Post-earthquake gas fires are a leading cause of secondary damage and have historically destroyed entire neighborhoods. In the 1994 Northridge earthquake, ruptured gas lines contributed to numerous fires across the San Fernando Valley.

Water damage occurs immediately when supply lines break. A ruptured cold water supply line can flood your home continuously until the main shutoff is closed — and during an earthquake, you may not be able to reach the shutoff quickly.

Physical injury from a 150+ pound metal cylinder toppling is a serious crush hazard, particularly in utility closets and garages where the water heater is close to foot traffic areas.

California law (California Health and Safety Code Section 19211) requires all water heaters to be strapped with approved materials. This requirement applies to both new installations and existing water heaters, and it's part of the standard point-of-sale home inspection. Many other seismic-risk areas recommend or require strapping as well, even if not at the state-law level.

Furniture: Toppling and Crushing

Bookshelves, dressers, china cabinets, and entertainment centers are top-heavy when loaded. During an earthquake, they sway and topple — directly onto whoever is in the room.

Children are disproportionately at risk because they're more likely to be at furniture height, less able to react and move, and in bedrooms where tall dressers are common. The Consumer Product Safety Commission reports that a child is injured by a toppling piece of furniture every 17 minutes in the United States — and that's during normal conditions, not earthquakes.

Beyond personal safety, toppling furniture blocks exit paths. After an earthquake, a bookshelf fallen across a hallway can trap you in a room or prevent evacuation.

TVs: Underestimated Projectiles

Modern flat-screen TVs are heavy (a 65" TV weighs 40-70 pounds), top-heavy, and placed on stands that are often barely adequate for static conditions — let alone earthquake forces. During shaking, TVs slide off stands, topple face-first, or become airborne in severe events.

The risk is compounded by where TVs are placed: living rooms and bedrooms where people spend the most time, often at head height for seated adults or standing children.

Wall-mounting a TV with a proper full-motion mount bolted into studs is the best earthquake protection. When wall mounting isn't possible, anti-tip straps provide secondary protection.

Complete guide to earthquake-proofing your home

Earthquake Straps and Anchors by Category

Water Heater Straps

Furniture Straps and Anchors

Installation Guide: Doing It Right

The Cardinal Rule: Stud Mounting Only

Drywall anchors will fail during an earthquake. This is the single most important installation principle. Plastic expansion anchors, toggle bolts in drywall, and adhesive-only mounts are not designed for the dynamic lateral forces of earthquake shaking. They will pull out, and whatever they were holding will fall.

Every strap, bracket, and anchor in this guide must be fastened to a wall stud (wood framing), concrete/masonry wall, or structural member using appropriate hardware:

• Wood studs: Use lag bolts (minimum 5/16" diameter, 3" length) or heavy-duty wood screws. Pre-drill pilot holes to prevent splitting.
• Concrete or masonry: Use concrete sleeve anchors or wedge anchors (minimum 1/4" diameter). Drill with a hammer drill and masonry bit.
• Metal studs: Use self-drilling sheet metal screws rated for the load, or toggle bolts specifically designed for metal stud framing. Metal stud mounting is less common for earthquake strapping — consult a professional if unsure.

Finding studs: Use a stud finder (electronic models like the Franklin ProSensor are more reliable than magnetic types). Studs are typically 16 inches apart on center. Verify by driving a small nail at the suspected stud location — if it hits solid wood after penetrating drywall, you've found a stud.

Water Heater Strap Installation

Water heater strapping requires two straps: one in the upper third and one in the lower third of the tank. This two-strap configuration prevents both toppling and sliding.

What you need:

• Water heater strap kit (two straps with brackets and hardware)
• Lag bolts (usually included; if not, 5/16" x 3" minimum)
• Drill with appropriate bits
• Stud finder
• Wrench or socket set
• Level

Installation steps:

1. Locate wall studs behind and/or beside the water heater. You need at least two studs for mounting — one on each side of the heater is ideal. If the water heater is in a corner, studs in both walls can work.

2. Position the upper strap approximately one-third down from the top of the tank. The strap should be snug around the tank and secured to wall studs on both ends using the provided brackets and lag bolts.

3. Position the lower strap approximately one-third up from the bottom. Same mounting method.

4. Tighten both straps so there is no slack. The water heater should not be able to shift or rock. Some movement during an earthquake is expected, but the straps prevent toppling.

5. Install a flexible gas connector if your water heater has a rigid gas line. Flexible connectors (corrugated stainless steel) absorb seismic movement without cracking. This is code-required in many jurisdictions and is arguably as important as the straps themselves. A plumber can install one for $50-$100, or you can do it yourself if you're comfortable working with gas fittings. If you smell gas at any point, stop immediately, ventilate the area, and call your gas company.

6. Install a flexible water connector as well, for the same reason — rigid copper or galvanized water lines can crack during shaking.

The Holdrite QS-50 Quick Strap simplifies installation by eliminating the need to wrap the strap around the tank. Instead, it attaches to the wall studs on each side and uses a ratchet mechanism to tighten against the tank. This is particularly useful for water heaters in tight spaces where reaching behind the tank is difficult.

Furniture Anchoring Installation

For bookshelves, dressers, and cabinets:

1. Empty the top shelves to reduce the risk of the unit toppling during installation.

2. Locate wall studs behind where the furniture sits. Move the furniture away from the wall if needed to access the wall surface.

3. Mount the wall bracket using lag bolts or heavy-duty wood screws into the stud. Position it near the top of where the furniture will sit.

4. Mount the furniture bracket to the back or top of the furniture piece using the provided wood screws. For particle board or MDF furniture (common in IKEA and similar products), use wider screws or add a backing plate to distribute the load — particle board pulls out more easily than solid wood.

5. Connect the strap between the wall bracket and furniture bracket. Adjust so the strap is taut with no slack, but not so tight that it pulls the furniture into the wall unnaturally.

6. Test by pulling firmly on the top of the furniture. It should feel solidly anchored and resist tipping.

Tips for specific furniture types:

• Bookshelves: Anchor at both top corners if possible. Distribute heavy items on lower shelves to lower the center of gravity.
• Dressers: Anchor at both top corners. Keep heavy items in lower drawers. This is especially important in children's bedrooms.
• China cabinets and display cases: Anchor the cabinet and consider using museum putty or wax to secure items inside as well. Apply Quakehold! Museum Putty to the base of vases, figurines, and glassware.
• Filing cabinets: In offices, anchor tall filing cabinets and always keep lower drawers loaded heavier than upper drawers.

TV Securing Options

Option 1: Wall mount (best protection)

A full-motion TV wall mount bolted into two wall studs with lag bolts is the most secure option. The TV moves with the wall rather than independently, dramatically reducing fall risk. Follow the mount manufacturer's instructions and ensure the weight rating exceeds your TV's weight.

Option 2: Anti-tip straps (for stand-mounted TVs)

Products like the Quakehold! 2830 Universal Flat Screen Safety Strap attach to the VESA mounting holes on the back of the TV and connect to the stand or the wall behind the TV.

1. Attach the TV-side brackets to the VESA mounting holes on the back of the TV (the same holes a wall mount would use).
2. Attach the anchor-side brackets to either the TV stand (using provided hardware) or the wall behind the TV (into studs).
3. Connect the straps and adjust length so the TV cannot tip forward off the stand.

Option 3: Adhesive/Velcro straps (supplementary)

Products like adhesive safety straps can supplement wall-mount or strap solutions. They provide resistance to sliding but are NOT sufficient as standalone earthquake protection for heavy TVs.

Securing Small Items

Quakehold! 88111 Museum Putty — A reusable, non-damaging adhesive putty for securing small to medium objects to shelves, mantels, and tables. Roll a small amount between your fingers and press it between the object's base and the surface. It holds firmly during shaking but can be removed and repositioned without damage to either surface. Ideal for vases, picture frames, small electronics, collectibles, and decorative objects.

Quakehold! 99111 Museum Wax — Similar purpose to museum putty, but better suited for delicate items on smooth surfaces. The microcrystalline wax creates a bond that resists lateral forces without damaging finishes. Preferred for fine china, crystal, and antiques where even minor adhesive residue is unacceptable.

Application tip: These products work on clean, smooth surfaces. They're not designed for porous, textured, or dusty surfaces. Clean both surfaces before application. Neither product is a substitute for strapping heavy items — museum putty secures a vase; it doesn't anchor a bookshelf.

Complete earthquake emergency kit guide

Buying Guide: What to Know Before You Buy

For Water Heater Straps

Code compliance matters. In California, water heater straps must meet requirements set by the California Building Code (based on the Uniform Building Code). Products that state "meets California requirements," "UBC compliant," or "OSHPD approved" are safe choices. The Watts, BRK/Kidde, Quakehold!, and Holdrite products listed in this guide all meet applicable codes.

Two straps minimum. Code requires two straps — upper and lower. Single-strap installations do not meet code and provide inadequate protection. The upper strap prevents toppling; the lower strap prevents sliding.

Material should be galvanized steel or heavy-duty nylon rated for seismic use. Plumber's tape (perforated metal strapping from the hardware store) is NOT the same as an earthquake strap kit — it's thinner, weaker, and doesn't include proper mounting brackets. Use a purpose-built kit.

Flexible connectors: Budget for flexible gas and water connectors if your water heater currently has rigid connections. This is at least as important as the straps themselves. A properly strapped water heater can still rupture a rigid gas line if the straps allow any movement at all.

For Furniture Straps

Match the strap to the furniture weight and height. A 7-foot, fully loaded bookshelf generates enormous tipping force during an earthquake. Use straps rated for the weight, and anchor into studs — not drywall.

Two attachment points are better than one. If possible, strap both top corners of tall furniture to separate wall studs.

Consider your furniture material. Solid wood holds screws well. Particle board, MDF, and laminate furniture (common in mass-market products) has weaker screw-holding capacity. Use wider screws, add washers, or install a backing plate on the inside of the furniture piece to distribute the load across more surface area.

L-brackets vs. straps: L-brackets (rigid metal brackets connecting furniture to wall) provide strong, permanent attachment but are less forgiving of minor wall/furniture misalignment. Nylon strap kits accommodate slight gaps and are easier to install. For earthquake purposes, both work when properly anchored into studs.

For TV Straps

Check VESA compatibility. Most TV anti-tip straps attach via the VESA mounting holes on the back of the TV. Verify your TV's VESA pattern (distance between mounting holes) matches the strap hardware before purchasing.

Wall mount > straps. If you have the option, wall-mounting your TV into studs is superior earthquake protection compared to any strap system. A mounted TV moves with the wall; a strapped TV on a stand can still shift and pull the straps to their limit.

Don't forget the furniture the TV sits on. If your TV is on a tall stand or entertainment center that isn't anchored to the wall, the stand itself may topple — taking the TV with it, straps or not. Anchor the stand to the wall first.

Common Installation Mistakes

• Using drywall anchors instead of lag bolts into studs. This is the number one failure mode. Drywall anchors cannot handle earthquake forces.
• Installing only one water heater strap. Two straps are required for proper protection and code compliance.
• Leaving slack in straps. Loose straps allow the object to build momentum before the strap catches. Snug straps limit movement from the start.
• Anchoring to the wrong stud location. Studs that are too far from the object create an unfavorable angle that reduces the strap's effectiveness. The strap should connect as directly as possible between the object and the nearest stud.
• Forgetting flexible connectors on water heaters. Straps prevent toppling; flexible connectors prevent pipe rupture. You need both.
• Not anchoring bottom-heavy furniture. Just because a piece of furniture seems stable doesn't mean it won't shift during strong shaking. Dressers with heavy lower drawers still slide and can shift enough to block doors.

Room-by-Room Earthquake Anchoring Checklist

Kitchen: Secure the refrigerator with an appliance strap. Install child-proof latches on all upper cabinets to prevent dishes and glassware from launching during shaking. Use museum putty on decorative items on open shelves.

Living room: Wall-mount or strap the TV. Anchor tall bookshelves and entertainment centers to wall studs. Use museum putty on vases, picture frames, and decorative objects. Secure floor lamps or replace with table lamps on lower surfaces.

Bedrooms: Anchor all dressers and wardrobes, especially in children's rooms. Don't hang heavy frames or mirrors above beds. Secure bedside lamps and electronics. Keep sturdy shoes under the bed for navigating broken glass.

Garage/utility room: Strap the water heater with two straps and install flexible connectors. Anchor tall shelving units to wall studs. Store heavy items on lower shelves. Secure chemical containers and paint cans in closed, latched cabinets.

Home office: Anchor tall filing cabinets and bookshelves. Secure computer monitors. Use museum putty on desktop items. Ensure heavy items on high shelves are strapped or on lower shelves.

Bathroom: Secure tall medicine cabinets to wall studs. Install child-proof latches on medicine cabinets. Mount a mirror with anti-shatter film or replace with plastic-framed alternatives above the vanity.

Full earthquake-proofing guide for every room

FAQ

Is water heater strapping required by law?

In California, yes — California Health and Safety Code Section 19211 requires all water heaters to be braced, anchored, or strapped to resist falling or horizontal displacement due to earthquake motion. This applies to both new installations and existing water heaters. Other states in seismic zones may have similar requirements in their building codes — check your local jurisdiction. Even where not legally required, strapping is strongly recommended in any area with earthquake risk. The cost is minimal ($10-$40) compared to the potential consequences.

Can I install water heater straps myself, or do I need a plumber?

Most homeowners with basic DIY skills can install water heater straps themselves. The job requires a drill, stud finder, wrench, and about 30-60 minutes. The strap kits include instructions. The part that may require professional help is replacing rigid gas and water connectors with flexible ones — if you're not comfortable working with gas fittings, hiring a plumber for the connector upgrade (typically $100-$200 for parts and labor) is money well spent. Never attempt gas line work if you're unsure.

Will furniture straps damage my walls or furniture?

Furniture straps require screws or lag bolts into wall studs (leaving small holes in the wall, similar to hanging a heavy picture) and screws into the furniture back or top. When removed, you'll have small screw holes in the wall (easily patched and painted) and screw holes in the furniture (usually hidden on the back or top). The trade-off between a few small holes and preventing a 200-pound bookshelf from crushing someone is clear. For renters: many landlords will allow and even encourage earthquake anchoring. Discuss with your landlord and offer to patch holes when you move.

How much shaking can earthquake straps withstand?

Properly installed straps (into wall studs with appropriate hardware) are designed to withstand the forces generated by strong earthquake shaking. There's no universal "magnitude rating" for straps, but code-compliant water heater straps and properly installed furniture anchors are engineered for the type of forces expected in seismically active regions. The most important factor is the mounting — a strap is only as strong as what it's bolted to. Lag bolts in solid wood studs can handle significant loads; drywall anchors cannot.

Do I need museum putty if I already have furniture straps?

Museum putty and furniture straps serve different purposes. Furniture straps prevent the bookshelf from toppling; museum putty prevents items on the bookshelf from flying off during shaking. During a moderate earthquake, your strapped bookshelf stays upright — great. But every book, vase, and frame on those shelves can still slide or launch across the room. Museum putty on delicate and heavy items, combined with storing heavy items on lower shelves, reduces secondary projectile hazards.

What about earthquake-proofing a rented apartment?

Renters can and should earthquake-proof their living space. Start with portable, non-permanent solutions: museum putty for small objects, Velcro-style TV straps, and securing top-heavy furniture with strap kits that require only a few screw holes (which are easy to patch when you leave). For water heater strapping, check if your landlord has already done it — if not, request it in writing. In California, landlords are legally required to strap water heaters. For furniture anchoring, most landlords will approve small screw holes for safety purposes if you ask.

Sources

1. California Health and Safety Code Section 19211 — Water Heater Bracing Requirements.
2. Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA). Protecting Your Home from Earthquake Damage. fema.gov earthquake risk management
3. American Red Cross. Earthquake Safety. redcross.org earthquake safety
4. U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission. Anchor It! Furniture Tip-Over Prevention. cpsc.gov tip-over prevention
5. Southern California Earthquake Center. Securing Your Space — Non-Structural Earthquake Hazard Mitigation.
6. FEMA. Reducing the Risks of Nonstructural Earthquake Damage — A Practical Guide. FEMA E-74.